Birding in Ecuador´s Beautiful Montane Cloud Forest at

Las Gralarias Guest House

Las Gralarias Guest House is one of Ecuador´s newest and finest birding lodges, situated on the equator at an elevation of 6000 feet/2000 meters elevation and just two hours from Quito. The lodge, located within the famous birding site Reserva Las Gralarias, provides first-class comfort and service while serving as a model for conservation and restoration of the Andean cloud forest habitat and its avifauna. Conveniently situated just 2 miles/3.5 kilometers from the main highway, the lodge is easily accessible. The lodge was designed for the comfort of our clients - in fact, you can drive right up to the front door!

The climate is very pleasant with comfortable temperatures (50-80°F/10-28°C). Often in the early mornings the sun rises from clear blue skies dominated by stunning views of the distant Pichincha Volcano and nearby bird-filled forested hills. By late afternoon spectacular formations of cumulus clouds may occur, and sometimes there are days with overcast. Generally there is only some rain in the afternoon, often followed by amazing celestial palettes of color as the sun sets over the western Andes . The main rainy season is normally short, from March to May. At this altitude and climate few bothersome insects are ever noticed, and tropical diseases have never been reported in this area.


Plate-billed Mountain-Toucan family nested along Sisters' Loop Trail near the guest house

Photos by Tim Krynak and Kathy Duffey

This lovely, tranquil new lodge is ideally situated at mid-elevation in the foothills of the Andes and especially for additional birding at key birding sites both upslope and downslope. Well-maintained trails lead to our hummingbird feeders, where we have recorded 23 species of hummers, including Chocó endemics such as Velvet-purple Coronet, Empress Brilliant, Violet-tailed Sylph and rarities such as Hoary Puffleg, White-tailed Hillstar and Wedge-billed Hummingbird. Other trails lead throughout the 425 hectare (1063 acre) reserve, through meadows, secondary and primary forest, to waterfalls, creeks and rivers. A variety of elusive, little-known mammals also occur on the reserve, And on 12 Nov 2007 a rare Spectacled Bear was observed approximately 500m above the guest house
 mindo birds

More than half of all the bird species found in the wider Mindo-Tandayapa-Milpe area have been recoprded at Las Gralarias. We currently have a bird checklist of 253 species of 44 families seen on the reserve, with of course many other species in adjacent areas. Of these, 29 species (13%) are endemic to the Chocó Biogeographic Region of the Andes West Slope, and 12 species are considered to be at risk (p.65-66, Birds of Ecuador). Specialties of the reserve include: Dark-backed Wood-Quail, Cloud-forest Pygmy-Owl, Golden-headed Quetzal, Crested Quetzal, Beautiful Jay, White-faced Nunbird, Plate-billed Mountain-Toucan, Giant Antpitta, Yellow-breasted Antpitta, Moustached Antpitta, Ochre-breasted Antpitta, Scaled Fruiteater, Orange-breasted Fruiteater, Green-and-black Fruiteater, Olivaceous Piha, Powerful Woodpecker, Crimson-mantled Woodpecker, Yellow-vented Woodpecker, 7 species of parrots, 15 species of ovenbirds, 27 species of tanagers, mountain-tanagers and flower-piercers, 5 species of antpittas, 25 species of flycatchers and much more!


Sunset over the Pacific slope at Las Gralarias

Rooms are new, spacious, comfortable and well-appointed, and each has a full bathroom with hot water. The covered outdoor patios are decorated with numerous hummingbird feeders. The rooms share a dining area as well as a small nature- and birding-oriented library room with a cozy heating stove and comfortable seating. Meals are excellent and the bar is fully stocked. Special diets are available with advance notification.

Our goal is to provide top quality birding in a comfortable setting while conserving the habitat and its avifauna. We sponsor local outreach environmental education programs, including a local birdwatching club for schoolchildren, as well as on-site research and are happy to hear from anyone interesting in volunteering to work at the reserve. The reserve encourages ongoing biological research, not limited to avian fauna but including all aspects of tropical montane and cloud forest ecology.

We manage the reserve for the benefit of native flora and fauna and allow human visitors to enjoy the reserve in areas and ways that do not disturb the ecosystem. No trees were cut to build our buildings. Our constructions are 100% ecological, made with long-lasting non-toxic materials that require little maintenance. All buildings were constructed in previously pastured areas and the surrounding sites are now being replanted with bird-friendly plants and native trees. Our water system is rainfall, collected in roof-tubes and cisterns and filtered through a pumping system. Used water is collected in septic tanks and gray water is filtered through a drainage field Our human footprint at Las Gralarias is minimal and blends harmoniously with our beautiful and tranquil surroundings.
   
 

This lodge and reserve cater to birds, birders and nature-enthusiasts!

So, if you want top class birding without the crowds, this is the place for you!

Trip Report

We can provide transportation, complete accommodations
 and an on-site guide as well as full birding tours in this area and anywhere else in Ecuador.
Check out our group tours at http://www.mindobirds.com.ec/ecua_bird_tour.htm

Advanced reservations only.
Contact us at: jlyons@ecnet.ec
Telephones: +593-97-351297, or +593-99-183015.

Individuals interested in volunteering at or donating to the reserve are invited to contact us.

Donations are tax-deductible within the U.S.A. via the non-profit Las Gralarias Foundation, Inc.


CLIENT COMMENTS ABOUT LAS GRALARIAS GUEST HOUSE

  • "Sublime stay in a truly special place. A real sense of wilderness when out on the trails on my own. A great hostess who really knows the meaning of the word hospitality. Many thanks." 18-21 Nov 2009, RV, Aberlady, Scotland, UK.
  • "This has been a wonderful trip made more so by the professional nature of the owner and staff. I have been all over the world and yet this is my first experience in South America. It was wonderful." 9-18 Nov 2009, JS, Wilmot, Ohio, USA
  • "Thank you for your love of nature and the fabulous job you have done in preserving a bit of paradise here at Las Gralarias. This has been a trip of a lifetime! The birds and the adventures have been wonderful. The food and the service have spoiled us, and Gabriel, Dusan and Jorge have become like family. Keep up the great work...Thanks you so much!" 9- 18 November 2009, VC, Wilmot, Ohio, USA
  • "Sooo good to see you, Jane, after the passage of five years! Las Gralarias is a bit of heaven, whether the sun shines too much or the fog settles in for days. Everyone raves about the food! We do too, especially the brownies with strawberry ice cream...chicken curry, the crepes, the cobbler...I could go on... I had never been anywhere in Latin America where the moths were so abundant! We celebrated the list of (about) 30!! skipper species. It took work but it was worth it!! The TANAGER FINCH coup-de-grace! Dusan is a super guide, he´s interested in everything. We delight in your sense of humor and your dedication to protecting this place called Ecuador. Rochard wants to thankl yu for the genuine quiet at night (his first good sleep in Ecuador since Sept. 28), the comfy beds, the large bars of soap, real wash cloths and space to lounge around in...Many thanks to you and your staff." 21-25 Oct 2009, SS&RL, Washington, USA.
  • "Thanks for a great stay. Fine food, wonderful birds, and a gracious staff." 21 Sept 2009, J&SC, Medina, TX, USA
  • ¨"What a wonderful place, warm and caring people. The food was wonderful especially for a vegetarian. Thank you Jane and Dusan for a memorable trip. The photography was great!" Sept 2009, AM, Chicago, IL, USA
  • "Enjoyed ourselves immensely. Great food and great birding." July 2009, M&JH, Danville, KY, USA
  • “I hope everything is OK, and I also hope Reserva las Gralarias is as beautiful as it was when we last saw it in July ! :) I wanted to thank you for the great and unforgettable time we had last month. Everything was incredible and I really don´t have enough words to explain you how much I miss it now. Our guide, Dusan, was great too! We can´t wait to come back! Jose is still working with the pics, as soon as he has them we will all receive them. Thanks again for everything.” 9 July – 3 August, 2009 DL, Madrid, Spain
  • “We had a wonderful visit, so comfortable with great food and service… and of course great organization, advice and hospitality...  We saw some great birds, including all the antpittas!  Thanks so much – we really hope to visit again!  Keep up the great work!”  20 May – 8 June 2009, S&TB, Brisbane, Australia
  • “I shall never forget Las Gralarias. Apart from the wonderful accommodation, food and birds, I shall always be grateful for Jane’s sterling efforts on the communication front to allow me to receive news of the birth of my first grandchild! Muchas gracias to all.” 8-10 April 2009, AS, Sussex, UK
  • “People were great, food was great, weather was…well, two out of three ain’t bad! Good place for research.” 3 March – 10 April 2009, CC, Arizona, USA
  • “Home from home! Welcoming and wonderful. We look forward to the next time.” 20 February – March 2009, AL & DB, Norwich, UK
  • “Wow! First trip to “sunny” Ecuador, and what a trip! Many thanks to Jane and Mindo Birds for putting it all together – the birds, the comfortable lodging, the wonderful food, the roads, the ferry crossings, the birds, the power outages (I should have said candlelight dinners) and of course, the rain. Last, but no way least, I will forever be grateful to Juan Carlos for getting us there and to Charley for finding those fabulous birds! 8-18 January 2009, TS, Georgia, USA.
  • “Many thanks to everyone here once again. We’ve had a wonderful guide, marvelous birds & food & hospitality plus the added adventure of lots of rain and not so much electricity! This was our second visit and we hope not the last.” 8-18 January 2009, D&KT, Georgia, USA
  • “Great trip – food – birds. Thanks much.” 4-8 December 2008, MC, San Benito, TX, USA
  • “Thanks to Jane and all the team for a wonderful break in the most fabulous setting…much time spent mesmerized by the birds…Thank you fior the wonderful food…can’t wait to return for a longer visit…” 10-12 December 2008, S&DA, UK and I&BM, Austin, TX, USA
  • “The cloud forest, the birds, Las Gralarias is a magical place.  Thank you so much for your kindness, your hospitality and making our holiday so memorable.”  22-30 Nov 2008, EL, Troy, MO, USA
  • “ Absolutely wonderful!  Jane is a great host, the lodge is fantastic, the food glorious, and THE BIRDS…!  Would not hesitate to highly recommend the whole experience.  Thank you for an unforgettable stay.”  11-15 Nov 2008, AE, Bogota, Colombia
  • “ Great lodge! Beautiful views, excellent food, great birding.  Thanks for working with us to plan a memorable vacation in Ecuador.”  13-24 Oct 2008, AM & JK, Austin, TX, USA
  • "We had a fantastic stay here! The Nature is truly unbelievable. We recorded more than 250 species in 5 days of intensive birdwatching - a record for all of us. We just can't find words to describe our feelings but we just have to come back even though we still have 12 days to discover more wonders in Ecuador." 15 July-2 August 2008, HD, VB, & B, Belgium
  • "What a lovely place - wonderful birds - great photography and a gracious hostess! Don't want to leave! Gabriel is a fantastic guide - in every way possible! -the perfect combination of patience, knowledge (he is brilliant!), pacing and kindness. He is by far the best guide I've ever had! I hope to return one day. Muchisimas gracias!" 28 June - 2 July 2008, PT, San Francisco, CA, USA
  • “Gracias for everything! You made our trip extremely interesting, comfortable and fun!” 2-5 June 2008, JS, Photographer, National Geographic Magazine, Nebraska, USA
  • “What a lovely place – wonderful service and food that made us feel very welcome. We had a great time – hardly felt like work! Thanks so much.” 2-5 June 2008, JH, Senior Writer, National Geographic Magazine, Washington, D.C., USA
  • “I felt instantly at home here. I never thought I could be so relaxed and so overwhelmed simultaneously. Jane – you have done amazing things and are an inspiration to conservation. I hope to come back and help unlock a few more secrets of the forest…Las Gralarias is truly an emerald hidden in the clouds!” 24 May – 5 June, 2008, HK, Washington, D.C., USA
  • “Thank you for an excellent stay and very good birding, especially the day with the Ocellated Tapaculo. The conditions here are perfect, nice staff, good music. Hope to see you again. Best wishes and thanks to Charley for guiding.” 14-17 May 2008, LB, Denmark.
  • “Las Gralarias is beautiful and we loved every moment , despite the rain! Best birding inn we’ve ever stayed at – and all the birds just add to it! Great to meet you and so many thanks to our wonderful guide Edison – I think he has four eyes and four ears! Hope to see you again soon!” 16-25 February 2008, JZ & AB, Brooklyn, NY, USA
  • “You have really spoiled us. We don’t know how much better it can get. Your staff is great, the food is wonderful…we have really enjoyed ourselves. Thanks ever so much.” 14 Febraury -11 March 2008, B&VW, El Cerrito, CA, USA
  • “Had such a great time – thank you! I don’t know what I liked better – the food or the birds!” 11-17 Feb 2008, S&CO, Chicago, IL, USA
  • “ We thoroughly enjyed our stay here. The company of all here and the fantastic meals, birds, room – were all nice. We’ll come again and refer others.” 18- 21 Jan 2008, B&RT, Oregon, USA
  • “ You have done a magnificent job blending conservation with ecotourism – and by far your accommodations outshine any other in the region – Bravo!!” 7-14 Jan 2008, NT, FL, USA
  • “ I’ll be back…Wonderful guide and wonderful birds... The lodge is glorious. Thank you.” 7-14 Jan 2008, DH, Cedar Key, FL, USA
  • “ Our few days in your quiet corner of the world have been wonderful. The birding was magnificent from dawn to dusk. We wish you luck in all your endeavors.” 24-27 Dec 2007, MG & CA, Killingay, CT, USA
  • “ Thank you for your warmth and hospitality. Most of all, Jane, bless you for your efforts to conserve our planet and provide a livelihood for your staff and community.” 22-27 Dec, MD, Elgin, IL, USA
  • “ Outside the toucans loved the mist; we tried to stay dry and not to slip on the wet ground. What an experience to see so many beautiful birds…Many thanks for most gracious hospitality and comfort, not to forget also the seamless providing of transportation. All in all a great trip and days spent very memorably. Thanks a lot!” 22-27 Dec 2007, EL, Schaumburg, IL, USA
  • “ Eat, sleep, bird – Life is simple.” Many thanks Jane, Charley and the ladies that cooked!” 27 Nov – 13 Dec 2007, SB & KD, Amherst, VA, USA
  • “ We had a lovely stay – good food, good company & good birds. Thank you for your hospitality.” 20 Nov – 6 Dec, 2007, J&SS, Paris, France
  • “ What a wonderful reserve – thanks for all that you have done for preserving this piece of paradise. Fantastic birds (& butterflies & flowers, etc.). Thanks for your hospitality.” 19-27 Nov 2007, MM, Bulverde, TX, USA and H&SP, Twann, Switzerland
  • “I thought compelled to write to thank you tremendously for all your help in organising such a magnificent trip to Ecuador. Despite the best efforts of Iberia we had a wonderfully organised trip, which gave us a real flavour of the incredibly varied geography and nature of the country. We particularly enjoyed our visit to Las Gralarias both for your warm hospitality and the birding. Birds like Toucan Barbet, Plate Billed Mountain Toucan, Yellow Breasted Antpitta and the flocks of tanagers and furnarids are not easily forgotten. We would be particularly grateful if you could pass on our sincere thanks to Charley and Edison for their expert guiding and of course to Juan Carlos for piloting us safely along some very interesting roads during our stay! We will definitely be back to Ecuador in the future as there are a whole range of places we would like to visit and we will undoubtedly use your expertise in planning any future trips. “ 14-30 Nov 2007, B&EH, Birmingham, UK
  • “ Thanks for a fantastic stay. You made us feel so welcome and were a wonderful hostess. Could have stayed and watched the booted racket-tails all day! Thanks for your superb hospitality and for nan abosulteyl wonderful stay. We were both enchanted by the place, the birds and the kindness of everyone. We will definitely be back again!” 14-30 Nov 2007, B&EH, Birmingham, UK
  • “ What a wonderful adventure. Beautiful waterfalls, great views, incredible birds…We had a great time and will leave with warm memories and good stories. Thank you Jane and Charley.” 18-21 Nov 2007, D&DW, Walnut Creek, CA, USA
  • “ Las Gralarias is a wonderful place and has left me with some great memories, Charles is a superb person and guide with oceans of patience with us poor souls and of course extremely knowledgeable on his birds, so a big thankyou to you both for making everything work. Hacienda Cusin and that gorgeous old place where we had lunch near Antisana were I gather from Tim suggested by yourself were just brilliant. Finally a huge big thankyou for all your stirling efforts in sorting out the Quito/Guayaquil flight affair.” 12-26 Nov 2007, TL, UK
  • “ We have so much respect for how you are meeting the challenge of protecting the environment and especially the birds. We have had an exceptional experience and look forward to the Amazon and Galapagos. Thank you and good luck to you and Charley and the new research institute.” 12 Nov – 4 Dec 2007, JSC, TH, SKS, UK.
  • “Wonderful visit – 5 star hospitality! Your place is beautiful and alive with birds and flora. What a great place to have my first trip to Ecuador – Thanks for everything.” 30 June – 6 July 2007, SR, Ohio, USA
  • “ This is heaven on earth – to hear, see and be buzzed by so many beautiful hummers! And – the people are wonderful too – you and your staff make this “home” to all who come – I feel blessed to have been here.” 30 June - 6 July 2007, ST, Ohio, USA
  • “Thank you for the excellent trip arrangements – everything went smoothly which allowed us to enjoy your wonderful reserve. The birds, moths and forests were a real treat. We enjoyed much our conversations and your hospitality.” 9-15 May 2007, SG, Sacramento, CA and SG Nashville, TN, USA.
  • “ Thanks so much for everything – the wonderful food, the great conversation and, of course, this wonderful reserve! You are doing a great service protecting Ecuador’s natural world!” 10-13 Mar 2007, D&JM, Peterborough, Ontario, Canada
  • “Fabulous forest and a wonderful facility! We had a great time and will have to come back.” 19 Feb 2007, M&CL, Alpine, TX, USA
  • “ It was a wonderful combination of relaxation and exciting birding. Plus excellent food and service.” 7 Feb 2007, KL, Puyallup, WA, USA
  • “ What a contrast between being in the clouds all day Saturday and Sunday and then the wonderful starry morning on Monday when we got up at 3.45am to go to see the lek and the warm sunny morning and equally warm and clear morning on Tuesday. Jane, you have a magical place. Best wishes.” 27-30 Jan 2007, N&FC, Scotland.
  • “ We enjoyed the stay so much. The accommodations were fabulous and this is the best food we have ever had at any lodge we have visited – and that’s a lot of lodges. Your knowledge of the area and the birds were so helpful. We will be back.” 25 January 2007, MB and JC, Panama
  • ”I wanted to thank you for such a wonderful time I spent at Reserva Las Gralarias. Your hospitality was wonderful, the food was great and the birds, plants, Quito and everything else was more then I ever thought it would be. I am glad I was able to help with the bird study and frogs. Tim said some of the frogs he found were endangered. It makes the land more and more important to save…. Again, thank you so very much. I had a wonderful experience.” 9-17 August 2006, JK, Cleveland, Ohio, USA
  • “ Arriving here was like a miracle – what a wonderful spot! The facilities were wonderful, and access to great birds was fine. What more could ask? Your hospitality was the best – we’ll be back… Thanks!” 1-4 July 2006, B&MH, Ohio, USA
  • “ A wonderful set of people in a beautiful location. Thank you for your kindness, generous spirit and care for the environment!” 18-24 June 206, SC, Atlanta, GA, USA
  • “ Thank you for a wonderful time and the great adventures. Appreciate your hospitality and generosity.” 18-24 June 2006, JL, Salt Lake City, Utah, USA
  • "I wanted to thank you for arranging a wonderful trip for Jeanne and me to Ecuador. We enjoyed the birding and your lovely guest house." 18-24 June 2006, LL, Utah, USA
  • “ Thank you for your gracious hospitality. I like your place and what you have done here. All the best to you.” 5 June 2006, PK, Midland, MI, USA
  • “Thanks so much for your wonderful hospitality! This is a great place and I just LOVE the forest and all its great birds. You and your staff have been excellent hosts. Hope we will return some day.” 23-29 January 2006, ST, Richmond, BC, Canada
  • “Thanks Jane for our best stay! You have a wonderful facility here with so much thought to detail. Thanks also for all your help and answers to our questions.” 23-29 January 2006, MT, Richmond, B.C., Canada
  • “ Jane you certainly have made our trip worthwhile. Thanks for the great service and great hospitality.” 23-29 Jan 2006, JT, Vancouver, BC, Canada
  • “50 lifers today – and at a very comfortable setting. Thanks!” 7-9 Nov, 2005, GM, San Francisco, CA, USA.
  • “I’ve been printing our pictures from the Ecuador/Galapagos trip and re-living all the sights, sounds, laughter and good fellowship. It was a wonderful trip. We loved Las Gralarias and it is my dream to someday come back and just stay there for a week (or longer), feet up, watching hummingbirds. Believe me, of all the places we went, yours was the best of all.” 2-6 Oct 2005, SE, Webster,WY, USA
  • “Nous nous sentons a la maison a Las Gralarias. De bons repas, des beaux sourires et un bel environment. Mais nos avons surtout vu de tres beaux oiseaux : le Plate-billed Mountain-Toucan tout juste avant de quitter et trios especies de fruiteaters..nous n’en esperians pas tant! Merci.” 27 Nov – 1 Dec, 2005, PP &GR, CM & RB, Québec, Canada.
  • “Great birding, great food, relaxing surroundings. Thank you Jane for this delightful week and many thanks to Benjamin”. 19-24 Nov, 2005, JG, Montréal, Canada.
  • “Un gros merci Jane pour le chaleureux accueil. Le confort, la bonne nourriture et un super guide ont fair le succes de ces agradables tours a las Gralarias.” 19-24 Nov, 2005, AD, Québec, Canada.
    “Thank you so much for your hospitality! Great food, great birding, great company. A delight!” 14-18 Oct, 2005, LR & RT, Austin, TX, USA
  • “Spectacular hummers, wonderful hospitality, great food and excellent conversation. Who could want more? Thanks!” 2-3 Oct, 2005, KL, Exeter, PA, USA.
  • “Having a great trip thanks to your organization and guides. Marvelous stay here; you have wonderful trails and super house and lodging. Thanks.” 10-12 Oct, 2005, H&AH, Canada
  • " Thank you for the great time at Las Gralarias and arranging our birding trip in Ecuador so well. We really felt like at home." 6-19 September 2005, J&WW and RH, Holland and Germany.
  • “ Fabulous place, wonderful birds, great trails, fantastic food and company – Thanks for a wonderful time!” 9-15 September 2005, MBS, San Diego, CA, USA
 
  • "Thanks for the lovely stay... you have a beautiful property! Will definitely be back for more birding and travelling." 9-15 August 2005, DK, Washington, D.C., USA
 
  • " Wow, what can I say about our stay with you in Mindo? Your place was pretty special indeed and our living quarters could not have been any better. It was such fun to finally meet you after almost a year's correspondence about visiting Ecuador, the cloud forest and the Amazonia area. I had expectations but nothing really came close to what I had envisioned our trip would be like once there. Thank you so much for your hospitality and the wonderful food! I absolutely loved the hummingbirds! I haven't seen that many species in the same place, anywhere. Seeing those gyrating wonders everywhere was special! Thank you again for all you did for us. Our hikes on your property and the birds we saw were great. Your food and staff were excellent. You have a special place there, I'm sure you know. Thank you for making all the arrangements for our trip plus Juan Carlos picking us up and delivering us safely." 29 July - 6 August 2005, MC, Paris, Texas, USA
 
  • " Thank you again & again for making this trip to Gralarias one we´ll always remember - such a wonderful place - a true gift for everyone and you´re such a gracious host...What delicious meals! Incredible trails!...We look forward to our next visit! Thank you again!" 17-31 July 2005, C&WH, Austin, Texas, USA
 
  • " Thank you Jane for arranging this wonderful introduction to Ecuador birding. Staying at Las Gralarias was very special. Sorry we cannot stay longer - maybe next time!" 7 July-5 August 2005, AB-W & DW, Hawaii, USA.
 
  • " Beautiful place! Giant Antpitta!! Thanks! Rooms luxury, good service, top location..We´ll send all the Dutch!" 10-12 May 2005, AN & RdH, Almere, Netherlands
 
  • " I just wanted to let you know that both Steve and I really enjoyed ourselves, and got to see a part of Ecuador that will surely stay in our memories. Steve was delighted with your guest facilities at Las Gralarias, in that he could get from bedroom to breakfast table in his stocking feet! You certainly made us feel at home. The hummingbirds were spectacular, and the other specialties like antbirds, toucans, quetzals, fruiteaters, all the colorful tanagers, woodcreepers and on and on were a marvel to see. Your organization and execution of the logistics went flawlessly, even when my arrival was delayed, and the Hotel Quito was a very satisfactory place to start and finish the tour. Edison was great... he is a good driver and didn´t bounce us around on the bad roads, speaks English well, and sensed our abilities so that we didn´t totally exhaust ourselves. Well, maybe we did, but it was fun doing it! I ended up with over 150 new birds among the 375 species we saw or heard, so my personal objective of getting my world list to 3000 was easily achieved in the first few days. When you asked if there was anything I really wanted to see, I listed a few hummingbirds, Torrent Duck and Sunbittern. We got the hummers, except for the Sicklebill; were spectacularly successful, after a couple of tries, with the Torrent Ducks; and missed the Sunbittern. So that leaves a reason to come back. Thanks again for all your efforts in helping us have a successful trip." 18-30 March 2005, BL, Berkeley, CA, USA
 
  • " Just wanted to say thanks for a great trip. Everything went smoothly getting out of Quito yesterday, and the entire trip went without a hitch. Both guides were great! Of the 3 lodges we stayed at, I enjoyed yours the most. Your company, your insights, and your food were all very enjoyable." 18-15 March 2005, SL, San Ramon, CA, USA
 
  • " Many thanks for all your help and assistance in Ecuador. Thoroughly enjoyed my time at Las Gralarias and elsewhere in Ecuador... my trip to Papallacta with Pancho was very enjoyable, 11 new species of bird for me yesterday, but no Condors, drat! Totalled up my trip list, 406 species in total , 166 new ones. Yesterday´s Sword billed Hummers at the Guango Feeders, though not new for me, were superb as the views were better than Peru, managed to video them from 4 feet away!! also videoed the Rufous bellied Seedsnipes. The weather was clear and sunny all day. Many thanks again, hope to return to Ecuador within 3 years and will contact you to arrange guides, travel arrangements etc when I get a "posse" of birding friends together to come there, shouldn´t be too difficult if I show them my video of the birds and scenery!!!" 24 Nov- 20 Dec 2005, SH, Southampton, UK
 
  • " Just a note to tell you what a great time I had at your beautiful lodge, and how much I enjoyed meeting you. Did enjoy all the birds I saw, especially the hummers, the quetzal, and my totem bird the powerful woodpecker!" 18-21 Nov 2004, JR, New Hampshire, USA
 
  • " I wanted to thank you for the great job you did in setting up our trip to Ecuador. You were very personable and knowledgeable to deal with. It was a great trip with wonderful memories (even the ones where I said "what am I doing her?") and lots of bird species seen and photographed. Eddy (Edison) was an absolute gem and we want him to guide us again in southern Ecuador and/or Peru. Everything was well taken care of including transportation, lodging and meals. It all went off perfectly and we never had to worry about a thing. That made the trip enjoyable and along with the birds - a wonderful birding adventure. I am busy going through 28 rolls of slides and all the digital photos I took. What a job to scan the slides and fix things up for printing and presentation. I am very pleased with some of the hummingbird photos. And thanks for guaranteeing the Velvet-purple Coronet. It was a beautiful bird but I think my favorite bird(s) of the trip ended up being the 2 sylphs... Thanks again for the great job and getting to meet you (you have a wonderful place to stay and bird). I look forward to dealing with you again for future trips." 2-19 Nov 2004, A&SH, Oregon, USA.
  • " We have all become big "pr" people for Ecuador and the islands. Your ears might be burning at times because your name has become a big part of the travel information that we spiel out to everyone we come in contact with. No words seem to adequately describe how much we enjoyed our time with you and your adopted country. I can tell you that the trip has definitely instilled the need to go back and see more. The time at your lodge was definitely a highlight and finally getting to meet my email pal was very rewarding. I felt completely at home with you and with Edison, who is a phenomenal guide. I take it back, it was nothing like home. I never felt so pampered. I wish you continued success with your lodge. It's gorgeous. Between Mike and Rich they took about 5,000 pictures, during the trip!" 4-20 Oct 2004, M,P & RK., Missouri and Texas, USA.


A TYPICAL DAY AT RESERVA LAS GRALARIAS

You rise before dawn to enjoy a delicious, fresh breakfast. You soon hear the haunting call of a nearby Moustached Antpitta, a rare and endemic species resident at RLG. You head outside as the sun begins to illuminate the craggy hulk of the twin old volcanoes, Rucu and Guagua Pichincha. Even at this distance they are quite impressive. The combination of the brisk bright morning, the pure air and the utter tranquility create a lasting impression on your mind and body .

You then hear the sweet song of a Yellow-bellied Siskin and the bark of a Collared Forest-Falcon and realize that your birding day has begun. Soon you are busy trying to identify all the different calls - the trill of the Yellow-vented Woodpecker, the buzz of the Purple-throated Woodstar, the chatter of Olive-crowned Yellowthroat, the sputter of Spillmann´s Tapaculo. A flock of noisy parrots flies overhead - you wonder which were they of the five species possible here?
 
By Tim Krynak
  

You head towards the forest and begin to inspect all of the moss-laden trees, especially searching for Uniform Treehunter and Pacific Tuftedcheek, two of the endemic species found here. You cross a small stream and seem so near a calling Yellow-breasted Antpitta and a Spillmann´s Tapaculo, but both remain hidden as you realize a mixed species flock is approaching. Quickly you identify Red-faced Spinetail, Orange-bellied Euphonia, Montane Woodcreeper, Pearled Treerunner, Golden-naped Tanager, Beryl-spangled Tanager - then the flock is gone. You continue into the forest and stop for a nice view of Rufous-crowned Pygmy-Tyrant. You hear the distinctive raucous call of Beautiful Jay and hurry on into the forest to try to see it. With persistence you not only get a great view of Beautiful Jay but find an Olivaceous Piha and Green-and-black Fuiteater, all gorging on a grape-looking fruit dangling high in the trees. By now the antpittas, have become silent. Well, something to try tomorrow.

Another flock in the distance promises some new birds. So you head off to see what might be found. You then you hear a Crested Quetzal calling behind you - from the place you just left. But ahead you hear the clatter of a pair of Plate-billed Mountain-Toucan and the loud double-whap drumming of a Powerful Woodpecker. But first you have to stop to marvel at a fantastic male Violet-tailed Sylph in all his splendor, even though you know you will see more of them at the feeders later in the day. Then a nice trio of Black-chinned Mountain-Tanager come into view while a family of Sepia-brown Wren fusses nearby.
By Tim Krynak

The day continues with a never-ending stream of birds - individuals, flocks, unidentified calls. You hear a pair of Barred Hawk calling overhead and Swallow-tailed Kites occasionally soaring below you. You identify the call of a Cloud-forest Pygmy-Owl, but decide instead to view the stunning pair of Scaled Fruiteater sitting quietly and perfectly camouflaged on curved branches near the trunk of a palmito tree. You head towards the Giant Antpitta territories with little hope of seeing it in mid-morning.

En route you listen to the memorable duetting of a pair of Toucan Barbet and a surprising burst of rolling song of Dark-backed Wood-Quail, all hidden somewhere in this fantastic forest. You see a fleeting patch of scarlet and eventually find a surprisingly well-hidden male Andean Cock-of-the-rock which disappears about a second after you see it. The flower-piercers and tanagers are on the move again, but you delve further into the forest, determined to find an antpitta. Your guide instructs to be still and quiet. After a long ten-minute wait, he motions for to you to go, saying quietly that the antpittas are not calling. As you turn to go, your guide gasps and you stop at the faint but unmistakeable call of the Giant Antpitta. You freeze and listen. Your guide patiently calls and after an eternity of waiting and listening, he whispers, "There it is!" You strain and see nothing, but you hear that incredible song and search again, unable to tell exactly where the sound is coming from. Then - you see it! WOW! It is beautiful! One of the world´s most spectacular birds just 4 meters away from you. An unforgettable bird in an unforgettable forest. Even after the bird hops away you hesitate to leave, savoring that magical moment of a life-time. But your guide points ahead and says " Orange-breasted Fruiteater?". You follow him quickly.

After a full morning of finding species after species, many rare and endemic, there is a noticeable pause in the activity, and your guide asks if you are ready for lunch. Your packed lunch, which seemed heavy as you carried it, now seems too light to contain enough food to fill you after such an intensive morning. But you are delighted to find a healthy, delicious, filling lunch plus plenty to drink and snack on. After the lunch break you feel ready for a siesta, but your desire to find more birds gets you back on your feet, ready to follow your guide and continue the quest...

By late afternoon, exhausted and dirty you return to the guest house, thinking what a glorious day you have experienced. And just as you are re-processing all the incredible sights and sounds of the day, you notice the hummingbird feeders and the spectacular Velvet-purple Coronet. Another "WOW!" escapes your lips. What a beauty! Then you watch the Empress Brilliant and Gorgeted Sunangel, many Fawn-breasted Brilliant and Buff-tailed Coronet and a few timid Purple-throated Woodstar, hoping for an appearance by the rare but occasional Hoary Puffleg.

You end the day recounting your list and sights, full from a perfect dinner and settled into a cozy couch in front of an old-fashioned heating stove. Your body tells you it is time to sleep, to prepare for the beauties and adventures of the next day. You will want to rise early again - gotta go find that Ocellated Tapaculo you heard calling from the other trail. Then your guide says, "You want to go owling?" You consider it briefly and then decide that owling can wait until tomorrow night...


By Tuomas Seimola